— by Bill Addison: When journalists analyze David Chang’s influence on American dining, we tend to focus on how his first two New York restaurants — Momofuku Noodle Bar, opened in 2004, and Ssäm Bar, which followed in 2006 — crumpled divides between formal and casual settings and blew up conventions around mingling flavors from many traditions.

The motive behind his iconoclasm might best be summarized on page 58 of his memoir “Eat a Peach,” written with Gabe Ulla and published this month…

Image courtesy of Andrew Bezek